Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Raki in Ramaniana


I just decided to spend some time on holiday, the first one since June 2009 when I went to Cabo de Gata in Spain. Because it is short notice, I looked where it is easy to fly from Berlin and also what is not too expensive for a few days. My choice went to Creta, island with the airport of Heraklion. The place I booked is far west of the airport and I needed today almost 5 hours to reach but It’s worth a visit. Ok, It’s not a trendy place and no one there is partying all night long. Just a few foreigners like me, probably lost or just intrigued or, like the English couple from Brighton I met at the dinner table, for the 5th time on this island and still enjoying it. It’s rural, no great expectations whatsoever but a lovely place to be when the only thing you’re looking for is quiet and peace. People here are very friendly and their hospitality is an honour. My host kissed me on my arrival, gave me some iced coffee (I love that), picking apricots from the tree. Already at the beach, where there is 10th of kilometers of loneliness, a guy layed next to me naked (ok, I’m not a virgin but who cares ?) and started a talk saying that water was cold (really ?). Outside is 35°C and the water is as warm, pure and cristaline, sun at his max and openly blue sky. Anyway, there was no sign of anything else. I know that here, being gay must be quite difficult because of the patriarchal society, I’ll come to it later with another example. Coming back from the beach, posted some pictures on Facebook just to say to my friends this is pure holiday, and It was almost 10:00 p.m. Maybe It’s time for dinner. Where I stay, there is nothing much, maybe 2 taverns not very far from each other and probably offering the same food. Nevertheless, my choice went to the opposite one from the place I stay, unfortunatly on the road, so I had the „chance“ to count every car and bus passing by. I ordered some Lamm and the ritual started. I thought for a while, I was back to Italy, just because the guy was bringing at my table some glass of apéritif, when I asked for nothing, stating that the red wine I ordered was decanting (really ?). Then he put on the table some delicious grilled bread toasted with garlic and herbs, then after I almost drank half of the 50cl of my wine, came my meal, well sorry, actually came 2 of them. One lamm, one chicken. The guy said that because I arrived late, the kitchen made 2 portions instead of one and I can taste both of them. Tasty indeed. But as I said, in Italy, everything that is brought to you at the table, even if you didn’t order it, is charged and I was afraid when I would ask for the check, that everything would have been put on the bill. But no. When I asked for the check (12€ !), the patriarch came with a delicious dessert made of cream and prunes and beside of that, brought as well the bottle of raki, local specialty, like schnaps or the „one for the road“. The English couple sitting next to me were already gone (in every way you can imagine), having had a very strong discussion with the waiter, dramatically friendly, explaining every story of each wine and alcohol he brought at the table. While this was happening, I had a look opposite where there is a kiosk where they sell cigarettes and ice cream. Some young people were meeting there, one come, one leaves, some other just passing by saying hello, taking some ice cream on the way (free of charge) and chating in a friendly way. When I say friendly, It’s very friendly. In Berlin, Paris or Barcelona, you would never see something like that. I guess, the only time I saw this king of friendliness was in India. I remember at a stop in the middle of the desert having seen my driver (I was not allowed to drive in India) being so happy to meet his „friend“ and going hand in hand along the walk. It’s not for disturbing me, on the contrary, but when I asked him about the situation, he answered vaguely that, no, no way, no gay attitude, just happy to meet a friend. My point is, when you’re traveling, you have to forget about anything you know and make your conscience clear, to be able to learn something new. What happened this evening in front of me is the following : The guys met one by one, arriving either with the car or the motorbike. One arrived in a Mini, (which car is more gay than this one ?), and another one came in a big 4x4 (trust me, he’s the bottom). This latest one arrived, started to simulate a fight with the other one, as of to provoque him but more than that, It was more a game of „master and servant“. When the muscled one responded to the game, he just put his friend on his knee, simulating whatever you think that is. Carrying on with the game, when the muscled one had a call on the mobile and the other one provoqued him further during his call, the fist one came after him, on his back and simulated (again) whatever (again) you can imagine. Nobody saw this or didn’t pay attention, probably. „I’m the only gay in the village“ as would say the famous Little Britain, but I was very interested watching that scene. It’s very interesting to look which behaviour belongs to those patriarchal society where being gay is accepted by the law but can’t be an option for the men. When I left after a few drinks of Raki, back to my place, here I am, at past 11:30 p.m., still only wearing a tee, outside on the terrace, listening to all the noises of the night that the landscape can bring, in a black night full of stars, cooling down the room, and drinking nothing else than water. Lucky me, I still have my cigs. You know what: something else : there is no wind anymore, meaning tomorrow is hotter : expected 38°C. Someone’s listening the 9th of Beethoven.

No comments: